After the micro had cured I sanded it and faired the tip to the rest of the canard.
Here is a pic of the front of the tip blended into the canard.
I then moved on to finishing the NC-6 inserts. I only needed to tap the hole and do a little deburing. I have been using a cordless drill for years to do my taping. It is easy to hold straight and you can set the clutch so you can control the force in the cut. It also makes it easier to do your in and out motion.
I fit the insert and marked out the hole for where the grub screw will lock the hinge pin.
Here is a pic of everything drilled and ready to be riveted in place.
I alodined the inserts and let them dry.
I wet installed the inserts with some epoxy zinc chromate. Because the inserts are really just a support for the hinge pin and to cap the elevator I installed them wet only for corrosion purposes.
Here is the insert final mounted with a flush rivet.
The plans call out to use a plastic tube in the tips as a closeout for the hinge pins. I couldn’t find the right size of plastic tube so I decided to use a brass tube that I had in my rc airplane building supplies. I used a drill to spin it and sanded it with some 120 grit sandpaper.
I cleaned the micro down to the glass around the opening. I taped the elevator to protect it and used some aluminum tape to create a dam on the backside. I didn’t want any adhesive running out the backside.
I waxed the hinge pin just in case the adhesive got where it should’t have.
Because I was using a metal as the close out I chose to use some structural adhesive to bond it. I used a syringe to inject the adhesive and spun the insert to make sure the adhesive had made its way around the tube.
Here is the tube and the adhesive going through its cure.
After the adhesive had cured I sanded everything flush to the canard tip. I am still waiting for the offsets so I can finish mounting the elevators. I do still have some fill and fairing to do but I think I will wait until I have the elevators finished before I carry on with that.